Unfinished Paint Grade
Unfinished Paint Grade

DIY Bathroom Remodel: Average Costs Vanities, Plumbing & More
You have decided to remodel your bathroom, but need to set a budget. Before you can do this, you will need to have some expectation of what an average remodel costs. For the do it yourselfer, you can save a lot in labor costs alone. But it depends on your experience too. There are some elements to remodeling that are simple, and there are some that require skilled trades. This article provides some average costs for the major items involved in a typical bathroom remodel.
Cabinetry
This can vary widely. For low end, paint grade unfinished cabinets, you can spend an average of $75/linear ft, to the upper end of $250/linear foot with an additional $100/foot to finish.
Plumbing
The average price of the plumbing will depend on how much work is involved. Do you plan to just install new fixtures, or will you need to move the toilet or shower from the existing location? If you are just changing fixtures, you can expect to spend an average of $600; if you need to make major plumbing changes, you could spend up to $2,600. Adding a Jacuzzi tub can add at least $1,000 to the budget.
Mirrors
Budget $200-$500 for mirrors. Mirrors can be as simple as standard size mirrors with no framing to custom cut mirrors from a glass shop or decorative mirrors that match your design.
Lighting & Electrical
Changing out light fixtures can start at an average of $100 and up; to change the layout of the existing lighting, adding recessed can lights and installing quiet exhaust fans can cost up to $1,500.
Flooring
The average floor labor install can cost between $4-$6/square ft, and the material can cost $2-$20/square ft. Most bathrooms have tiled floor, but concrete, vinyl and wood are also alternatives.
Shower
An average one piece surround shower will cost $400; if you plan to add a tile shower, you can expect the averages to be similar to the flooring averages outlined above. This will be highly dependant on the material you choose. Adding a frameless shower door can average $1,000.
Drywall/Paint
For simple textured walls, an average budget is $600, while an artistic or plaster finish can cost up to $2,500.
Countertops
A prefabricated cultured marble top with integrated sink can cost $100. A natural stone top, such as granite or marble can cost an average of $65/square ft, which includes material, fabrication and installation.
Accessories
Accessories include towel bars, toilet paper holders and hooks. A good budget amount is $100-$500 depending on the finish. Simple chrome fixtures are at the lower end; Oil Rubbed Bronze is considered higher end.
Labor costs will be the biggest factor to consider, and is dependent on your labor market. Before starting any remodel project, make a list of all planned changes, and prepare a detailed budget for each item. It is easy to go over budget on any remodel project.
About the Author
Julia Ritzenthaler is Owner of boutique online furniture stores, http://www.UniqueVanities.com, http://www.UniqeMirrorsOnline.com, & http://www.UniqueLightFixture.com. For more information about unique bathroom vanity ideas, visit us online or email us with your questions at uniquevanities@msn.com.
Decorating our living room and need advice for smooth walls?
Okay, before you start with the "Get a plasterer in" answers, it's not an option. Too expensive.
Now, we have peeled back the wallpaper in our house to find that the last people had papered straight onto unfinished walls. (We also found that they had god awful taste in wallpaper!!!)
I have ruled out Polycell Smooth Over because it has been slated.
I cannot plaster myself.
That leaves lining paper.
I am cool with this and know that I am to leave a small gap that will then be fillered and sanded.
I am fine with that.
My question is this ...
Which grade lining paper should I use to get the smoothest look as I will be painting OVER it, not wallpapering?
Some have said to get the thinest for a smooth finish and yet more people have recommended getting around 1000 - 1400 and it looks great.
Anyone have advice from personal experience?
I would have the walls skimmed over lining paper all day long; but if that is what you have chosen to do.
Lining paper is never as good as plaster. It never really evens out the surface that much more than you can do with filling and rubbing down (as the apprentice above rightly points out). The only time I use lining paper is if the previous painters have been heavy handed and there is a thick uneven paint texture on the walls - otherwise fill and rub down.
If you hang lining paper then use the thicker 1400 grades. The reason decorators use the thinner grades is they think it is easier to hide the joints. It is nothing to do with laziness leaving a gap in the joints of lining paper - lining paper edges are not perfectly true and it is not possible to truly match them up. If you overlap then the ridges cast shadows, - you need to butt them together without overstretching and accept that where the edges go in and out they will not butt up together and so you will have a gap of a few mil. Don't stretch and force the edges together. apply a coat of emulsion to the joints with a 4 inch foam roller then fill with fine surface or lightweight filler.
There was nothing wrong with the previous person papering straight onto the plaster. When you hang your lining paper it is better to hang it horizontally (but not essential). Lining paper is stronger hung horizontally and it was intended to be hung this way as preparation to take a wallpaper afterwards - it was never intended to be painted originally.
You need to size the walls (apply coat of thinned wallpaper paste) before hanging your lining paper. Always hang the first piece on each elevation to a horizontal (or vertical if you are hanging it that way) chalk line. Never use PVA directly under paint as someone else suggested.
unfinished romeo and juliet project




